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Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

With the Tutorial Designing an Amigurumi: Little Cow Bookmark you will learn about triangular shapes, 3D and flat pieces and thick edges.

We are at the end of August. September is coming soon and back to school. There are many of you who asked me for a new bookmark since you really liked the one with the monkey. I had to start designing it now or it wouldn’t arrive on time, but what to do this time? I needed new ideas. Another elongated bookmark like the little monkey? It would be more of the same and my intention was to try something new.

The first thing I had to do was choose the shape of the bookmark and searching through the different models, I really liked the corner bookmarks, especially for the versatility they offer in order to adapt them to create different figures.

I wanted something simple, with simple shapes, worked with basic stitches and taking advantage of the fact that the main piece would be triangular, I could focus on that shape to design most of the rest of the elements of what I intended to be another little animal.

One of my favorites whose shape would be perfect and that I could easily design according to my conditions is the cow. Decided! The new pattern would be a little Cow Bookmark:

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

The design would have to consist of:

A triangular, hollow main piece, of the right size to insert the page of a book into it, rigid enough at the edges so that it maintains its shape as it does not have fiberfill stuff.

This piece must also have the peculiarity that one of the sides is longer than the other.

Start designing the pattern:

Main Piece

To give the piece a triangular shape, I will work the first rounds with increase sequences based on 3, that is, I will use sequences of stitches in which I will make 3 increases on each round.

The beginning of the piece, on the other hand, I want it to be more pointed and therefore after the magic ring, instead of making an increasing round, what I do is a fixed round, that is, a round without modifying the total number of points but that lengthens the piece.

It is time to alternate increasing rounds with fixed rounds to shape the piece. If I only use increasing rounds, the piece would become too wide very quickly, so fixed rounds must also be used, to, in addition to increasing the width, lengthen the piece.

Once the pointed shape has started, I need the piece to be wider, so I have to expand the increase sequences and go from making the rounds based on the 3 to making them on the 6. That way I will make 6 increases in each round, which will change the shape of the piece, expanding the triangle.

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

Divide the piece

Measuring the length and width I need, after round 23 with 60 stitches in total, I have to change the way I continue crocheting. I need one of the sides of the piece to be longer, so the easiest thing to do is to divide the piece into 2 equal parts and continue crocheting only on one of them.

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

Once the division is done I have to start working in rows instead of doing it in the round, as many rows as the length I want this side to be. However, I am not interested in having the side be straight since then I would lose the shape that I want to give to my cow’s head. To give a more rounded shape I am going to reduce the length of each row by losing a sc at each end, turning without ch 1 and making a final decrease.

Once I added the length I want, I could finish the piece, but it doesn’t look clean. When crocheting straight, the edges have been irregular and when doing it only on one side, the shape is not unified.

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

How to improve the appearance of the piece?

Working around all of it. By crocheting bordering the rows, I smooth out the uneven edges. By continuing on the short side, I unify the two parts of the piece.

Just need to give some firmness to the edges. Let’s not forget that this is a woven piece, but it must be placed on a sheet. It is necessary that the edges do not bend so easily. Crochet a last round reinforcing the stitches and forming a thicker edge working in the post of each st. In this way the main piece of the bookmark is finished. Now we have to do the details to turn this piece into a cute little cow.


Continuing with the idea of using triangular shaped pieces, I can make them flat (spots) or three-dimensional (horns). Some pieces are even made up of both elements, such as the ears. Its base is three-dimensional to which a flat triangular piece is added.

Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark

As for the most important part of the face, the snout, I needed a flat, oval piece of considerable length. The simplest thing would be to reach the required length through chains and on them achieve the oval shape. That is why, instead of crocheting in rows, you have to do it on both sides of the chains. By this way you can crochet rounds and give the piece a rounded shape. As the length was established with the beginning chains, what we have to look is the width of the piece. As we already know, to achieve this, I use the increasing rounds that I alternate with fixed rounds. The piece will maintain its flat shape.

A balance is necessary in the use of both types of rounds. The fixed rounds alone would arch the shape too soon. The increasing ones would do the same with respect to the width.

Highlight the edges

The shape of the pieces is important, but we must not forget that the details are what make the difference. I wanted my little cow to have a more striking appearance. I decided to highlight the edges of several elements in black as if they were outlined with a marker.

To achieve a flat edge I had to use the lowest stitches, such as slip stitches. To make it look regular, I had to work over the back loop of the stitches. In order to avoid excessive curvature of the piece I had to increase.

Finally, the eyes had to follow the same line as the rest of the pieces. They have to be simple, flat and with the appearance of being drawn.

The chains along with the slip stitches would allow me to shape two lines. I would sew them curved over the face to give the cow a smiling appearance. The combination of black and white colors highlights them and gives them vibrancy.

All you need to do is assemble all the pieces and the cow bookmark is finished!

>>>Vaquita Marcapáginas patrón amigurumi (Español)<<<

Little Cow Bookmark Amigurumi Pattern

Did you like the tutorial Designing an amigurumi: Little Cow bookmark? Don’t forget to leave me your opinion in the comments of the post

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Trophy Amigurumi pattern

Size:                     2,7″ / 7 cm
Difficulty:           High
Time:                   1 h
Hook:                   2 mm
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.
If you have any questions contact me:
Golden yellow yarn
Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
Yarn needle.

Trophy Amigurumi pattern


With golden yellow yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring3.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. 1 sc in each st (24).

6. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (24). You will return to this round to complete the base.

7. 1 sc in each st (24).

8 and 9. Dec in every st (12), (6). Start stuffing the piece.

10. to 13. 1 sc in each st (6). Finish stuffing the piece.

14. Work in back loops only dec in every st (3). In this way you close the piece preventing the stuffing from coming out.

15. Work in front loops only, that is, in the loops that you left unworked in the previous round. Inc in every st. (12).

16. Inc in every st (24).

17. to 27. 1 sc in each st (24).

28. and 29. Work 1 sc in the post of each st (24)

Fasten off.

Complete the base

With golden yellow yarn

1. Return to round 6 and holding the trophy with the cup pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each st (24).

2. Work 1 sc in the post of each st (24).
Fasten off.


With golden yellow yarn

1.Ch 19 and work 18 sc in the chains.

2.Continue without turning, in the beginning chains again, but in the other side another 18 sc to get a 36 sc piece in all. (36).

3.Ch 1, turn and work slip stitches joining the 18 sc of each side (18).
Fasten off.
Sew the handles to both sides of the trophy making sure they are placed in the middle of it. Join them under round 28 of the cup, that is, the round in which you worked in the post of the stitches.
At the bottom, sew them to the edge of the cup, that is, leaving 3 sc of separation from the narrowest part. Don’t sew the bottom end, approximately the last 4 stitches.

Congratulations, you have finished your amigurumi trophy! Now you just have to give it to the champion of your life!

If you liked the Amigurumi Pattern Trophy, leave me your comment and if you dare to crochet it, send me the photo or tag me on social media so we can all see it.

The pattern in spanish

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Designing an amigurumi: Rose

The month of June begins and my garden is filled with my favorite roses, pale pink in color and an unmistakable aroma that takes me back to childhood. It would be fun to crochet one, but how?

Designing an amigurumi: Rose

Once I am sure about what I want to design, I need to have a visual model, drawing, photo or even the object itself. In this case, a rose.

It must be clear that our model must be just that, a reference to follow, but not something fixed that limits us. In my opinion, if amigurumis have something, it is that we can give wings to our imagination and capture our own tastes in them, without distorting the object they reflect.

If I’m strict, this time it’s not an amigurumi itself, I’ll explain why: I wanted to do it in a different way, without fiber fill but with volume, using the basic crochet stitches, without changing color and except for a small part, crochet in rows.

But let’s start at the beginning:


  • Very light pink and olive green yarns.
  • 2 mm crochet hook.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Scissors.
  • Paper and pen.

Start with the main part, the body of the rose with the petals.

I want to work straight, in rows, but to give shape and volume to my rose I need the fabric to be crocheted to roll around itself.

I really admire the work of other colleagues, but one cannot limit oneself to seeing other amigurumi crocheters. There are true artisan artists whose techniques are worthy of admiration and, why not, extrapolated to our field.

I remember seeing some molds for making fondant roses to decorate cakes in a well-known online store. With them an elongated piece was formed with waves on the sides that had to be folded and wrap. It was different from what I had seen in crochet and it was worth trying.

I start the pattern:



With very light Pink yarn

The first row will determine the width of the flower, while the total number of rows will determine its height. A 60 sc piece, in addition to having the size I need, makes things easier when dividing the petals, as there are both 30 and 60 even numbers and divisible by 3.

1. Ch 31 and work 30 sc in the chains.

2. I Continue working in the beginning chains, but in the other side another 30 sc to have a 60 sc piece in all (60).

I already have the piece, but it needs to be wider.

3. I Place the round marker to work 1 sc in each st (60).

4. 1 sc in each st (60).

5. It’s time to start crocheting the petals:

The shape of the rose determines the size of the petals. When having to roll it, they have to go from smaller to larger size, since their position will be from the inside to the outside. To separate the petals from each other I use the slip stitch and to gain height and size of the petals I work several stitches into one and use more stitches from the piece to crochet each petal.

1) 1 double crochet, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

2) 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

3) 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

So far I have occupied 6 sc of the 30 that form half of the piece.

4) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

5) 2 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

6) 3 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

With these three petals I have occupied 12 more sc, so I have crocheted 18 sc in all. I have 12 sc left to crochet over.

The simplest thing is to make 2 final petals of the same size, each occupying 6 sc.

7) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

8) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

I have already crocheted over the 30 sc that form half of the piece.

Now I have to work over the other half following the same pattern, but in reverse, that is, when I have to roll the piece, I must start with this last petal up to the first.

Designing an amigurumi (Part I)

Once the 8 petals are completed, I fasten off leaving a long thread to be able to sew the rose when giving it shape.

For that, I fold the piece in half and roll it.

Once it’s the shape I like, I pin it in place. I sew along the back, holding the loops carefully so they don’t separate, but leaving the petals loose.

Once the flower is finished, it is time to complete it with some leaves.

I want to cover the back of the rose, but since I don’t use fiberfill, a flat circular piece is best. Around it I will crochet the leaves. Again I am going to use even numbers divisible by 3. In this case starting with a 6 sc magic ring.


With olive green yarn

1. I Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

These 18 sc are enough to cover the back.

It is time to start crocheting the leaves. The idea is to do it in rows in one time. For this, I’ll use a combination of chains and sc around the main 18 sc piece. The number of chains will determine the length of the leaves and the stitches that occupy in the piece their total number. Each one will occupy 1 sc, so this time it will be the separation stitches between them that will determine the number of leaves. Being 18 sc the total stitches to crochet the leaves, the easiest thing is to make 6 leaves occupying 3 sc each, that is, 1 sc for the leaf and 2 sc separating them.

4. 1 sc, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains. “3 sc on the base piece, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains” 5 times, 2 sc.

I have already part of the 6 leaves.

The leaves need to be shaped by incorporating some detail such as irregular edges. For this I am going to continue working around the piece, bordering the leaves adding something as simple as some chains.

5. 1 sc, I work in the side of the chains: “1 slip st + ch 2 + 1 slip st, 1 slip st in the next chain” 3 times. I Continue crocheting in the other side of the leaf following the same pattern. 3 sc on the base piece to work on the next leaf following the same pattern. I Repeat until completing the 6 leaves and the round.

I fasten off leaving a long thread of wool to sew the piece on the back of the rose. Place the magic ring outside.

And the Rose is finished! Do you like it?

But this is the first version of the pattern and there are things to review and even modify. For example, adding height to the final petals, a touch of color to the initial ones. Maybe I should place the leaves in a way that is not so symmetrical, or modifying their size. Designing a pattern means giving it many turns, correcting, rectifying, even after finishing it.

I hope you like both the pattern and the tutorial Designing an amigurumi: Rose and find it useful.

See you in the next one!

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Several ways to decrease

Do you know there are several ways to decrease?

One of the things that anyone who wants to crochet amigurumis must master with skill is making increases and decreases.

Today I am going to talk about the latter and the importance of doing them correctly.

In a previous post I have already told you about the decrease rounds, which are those in which we remove stitches crocheting sequences with decreases. In this way we reduce the width of our piece, modify its shape or even finish it.

Let’s see what are the different ways to decrease:

Skip a Point:

It is the basic method, but not recommended if what you want is a good aesthetic result.

Consists in:

Crochet the stitch over the second of the 2 stitches in which you must decrease, leaving the first one unworked. In theory you make a decrease, so you reduce the number of stitches. In practice, you leave holes in the fabric and a untidy look to the piece. Using it when working in the round is not a good idea, so its only use would be at the beginning of a row when we work straight.

The Traditional Method:

It is the simplest and the most used by beginners.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook, which already has a loop on it, in the first stitch where you must decrease. Take the thread, and return. Now you have 2 loops on the hook.

2. Then introduce the hook in the next stitch and do the same. You already have 3 loops on the hook.

3. To finish the decrease take the thread and go through the 3 loops in one go.

If you realize, in steps 1 and 2 it is about starting to work the first part of 1 single crochet without actually finishing it, while in step number 3 you complete it.

In this way you join the 2 points, leaving only one.

Although this method is better than the previous one, the fabric is not clean, leaving small bumps or even holes in it.

The Invisible Decrease

It is the method used by more experienced crocheters looking for a neat and tidy appearance in their amigurumis.

To execute it, you must first look at the points. They have 2 parts, one in front and one in back.

When crocheting, you normally take the entire stitch with the hook, that is, the 2 parts, but sometimes you must take only one. This is what you will do in the invisible decrease.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook only in front loop of the first stitch in which you must decrease.

2. Insert the hook in front loop of the second stitch.

3. Take the thread and cross those 2 parts.

4. To finish, with 2 loops on the hook, take the thread and complete the single crochet.

In this way you go from having 2 points to only 1, but unlike the previous method, the aesthetic result is much better. The fabric is even, without lumps or holes.

On the other hand, inside the piece you can see the back loops of the stitches that you have left unworked, something that you must take into account if you leave that part visible.

It’s not that difficult, is it? Do you dare to practice crocheting any of my patterns?

If so, send me the photo for everyone to see in the Gallery!

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Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

Chestnut amigurumi pattern

Enjoy crocheting the Chestnut amigurumi pattern!

It is chestnut time and here in my land, in Galicia, we have the tradition of celebrating the Magosto.

Do you know it? It is a popular festival that takes place in all corners of the community between the end of October and the beginning of November and whose main ingredients are chestnuts, fire and wine.

I remember when I was little the Magosto celebration at school, with the roasted chestnuts prepared by the older ones, the fun games and our faces painted with the charcoal from the bonfires (there was no wine there, of course)

There are several theories about the origin of this tradition.

Some say that it is linked to the end of the chestnut harvest, given the importance of this fruit both in gastronomy and in the Galician economy before the arrival of the potato from America.

Another more magical theory, given that the magosto is usually celebrated at the beginning of November, relates it to the celebration of Samaín, a Celtic tradition later transformed into All Saints’ Day, on November 1. And there is also the saying: “Por San Martiño faise o magosto, con castañas asadas e viño ou mosto” (For San Martín the Magosto is made, with roasted chestnuts and wine or grape juice) (San Martin is celebrated on November 11)

They say that at that time Celtic rituals were performed that linked wine with life and chestnuts with death, each roasted chestnut symbolizing a soul that was freed from purgatory. How curious, right?

To celebrate this tradition with you I bring you a small gift:

Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

It is a simple pattern, with which you can crochet a funny chestnut with its bur, Kawaii style and like all my designs “totally soft”

Patrón en español

Let’s begin!

Size: 2,7” / 7 cm

Difficulty: Medium

Estimated time: 8 h

Hook: 2 mm

– Yarn of different colors: white, black, brown, light brown, light green.
– Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
– Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
– Yarn needle.
– Fiberfill.
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
BLO: Back Loops Only  
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.


With Brown yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (6).

3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

5. Inc in every st (18).

6. and 7. 1 sc in each st (18).

8. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

9. “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (30).

10. “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (36).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (36).

13. 1 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 5 sc (48).

14. to 17. 1 sc in each st (48).

18. 3 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 3 sc (36).

19. and 20. 1 sc in each st (36).

21. 4 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 2 sc (30).

22. Change to light brown yarn and work 5 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 1 sc (24).

23. 1 dec, “2 sc, dec” 5 times, 2 sc (18).

24. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

25. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.


With light green yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. From this round and the next ones you are going to work in back loops only: Inc in every st (12).

3. BLO “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. BLO “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. BLO “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. BLO “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

7. BLO “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).

8. BLO “6 sc, inc”, repeat (48).

9. BLO “7 sc, inc”, repeat (54).

10. and 11. BLO 1 sc in each st (54).

12. BLO “7 sc, dec”, repeat (48).

13. 1 sc in the post of each st (48).

 Fasten off.


With light green yarn

Start working in the free loops from the final round until the beginning of the piece. Work the following sequence: “1 sc, ch 3, 2 slip st in the chains, 1 slip st in the point origin of the chains, 1 sc in the next st” Repeat to the end.

Fasten off.

EYES (x2)


With White yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

Fasten off.


With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off.

Sew the pupil attached to the bottom of the white background and the whole eye leaving 10 sc of separation from the pointed part of the chestnut and 3 sc of separation between them in the middle part. With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

Centered under the eyes, leaving 1 sc of separation, embroider the mouth with light brown yarn.


I hope you enjoy crocheting this cute chestnut and that you liked the history of this tradition!

Remember that if you crochet it you can send me the photos by email or comment on what you want here in the post.

See you soon!

If you liked the Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern, you may want to see other patterns related to Galicia:

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Morphology of a crochet hook

As you know, to crochet amigurumis the hook is of special importance, since a bad choice of the same can lead us to obtain a bad result, hinder our work or even cause injuries.

This time I don’t want to talk to you about the different types of hooks, designs, materials … I will leave that for another moment.

Today we are going to start with the basics, with the parts that make it up and what each one is for.

Can you tell me how many parts a crochet hook has? And their names?

Let’s discover the Morphology of a crochet hook.

A standard hook is made up of 7 parts. Let’s see what they are:

Morphology of a crochet hook

1. Point or Head: It is the end of the hook that we insert into the fabric. We use it to hook the yarn and crochet the stitches.

In turn, it is made up of:

Morphology of a crochet hook

-Mouth: Hold the yarn when crocheting the stitches.

-Hook: Prevents the yarn from coming out of the mouth when crocheting.

2. Throat: Guide the thread into the work area.

3. Work area: It holds the loops and is very important because it determines the size of the stitches. The size of the hook tells us precisely the diameter of the work area.

Morphology of a crochet hook

4. Thumb rest: It is the flat part in which we place the thumb or another finger and thus be able to handle the hook. In this part usually appears the numbering or measurement of the hook.

Morphology of a crochet hook

5. Handle: It is the final end of the hook and is used to manage it with the palm of the hand or the other fingers, depending on the way in which we hold it.

As you can see, each part of the hook has its reason for being and knowing the morphology of a crochet hook will help us to improve our work.

Until next time!

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How to know the weight of the yarn

How to know the weight of the yarn quickly and easily is an important matter for all of us who like to crochet.

As you know, one of the most important characteristics of my patterns is that the resulting amigurumis are “totally soft”. I do not use hard elements such as wires, buttons, zippers or even safety eyes. You can crochet them only with wool or yarn, a crochet hook and fiberfill.

Since these are the only materials that I use, it is essential that they be the most suitable to achieve the desired result.

There are many of you who ask me what type of yarn I use and since we are all from different places, sometimes it is difficult for me to explain and talk about centimeters, inches and categories according to their thickness.

Today I am going to talk about yarns, more specifically, how to know the weight of the yarn when you do not have any reference, for example, if you have a mysterious ball of yarn of which you have lost the label that specifies its characteristics.

But first, there are some things you should know about yarns to make it easier for you to choose the right one when crocheting your amigurumis.

Yarns are classified into several categories, but unfortunately, there is no single method to do so.

In general, there are:

The standards of the CYC (Craft Yarn Council) that represents the most prominent members of the yarn industry in the United States.

Depending on the weight of the yarn, we can classify it into the following categories:

The classification according to the number of plies that the yarn has. This system is the one used in the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

The problem with this classification is that it does not determine the thickness of the yarn, but rather the number of strands that are twisted to form it. There is the possibility that a yarn of 5 strands (5 ply) may be thinner than a yarn of 3 (3 ply), by the mere fact that each strand is of a lesser thickness or have been spun with greater tension between them.

• Wraps per inch method (WPI)

As its name suggests, it is about classifying the yarn according to the wraps of the same that fit in an inch or what is the same, in 2.5 cm.

It is a very useful method to determine the weight of that mysterious ball of yarn without a label that you want to use, but you must bear in mind that it is not exact, since there are factors that can alter the measurement.

To use it you need:

• A rule.

• Something to wrap the yarn with uniform thickness. You can use, for example, a pencil or a pen.

It’s easy:

1. You must wrap the yarn so that each strand is next to each other, that is, they do not overlap. Do it carefully, do not tighten too much, or leave it loose, since you could vary the result too much.

2. With the ruler measure 1 inch or what is the same 2.5 cm. That is the length you should wrap.

3. When you have it, count the wraps you have made and guide yourself through this cheat sheet. Depending on the number of wraps, this will be the weight and category to which your yarn belongs.

If you have doubts, first try to do it with a yarn whose weight you know.

Let’s see some examples:

This picture shows the yarn that I normally use in my patterns. Using this method, I have made 17 WPI. That places it in category 2 Fine.

How to know the weight of the yarn

This other, on the other hand, is much thicker and for that reason I have only made 9 WPI. It belongs to category 5 Bulky.

How to know the weight of the yarn

Finally, we have a much finer yarn with which I have managed to make 28 WPI. It belongs to category 0 Lace.

How to know the weight of the yarn

As you can see, it is a very simple method, but remember that it is not exact, but only an aid that will help you guide yourself.

Until next time!

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Right side and wrong side in amigurumis

The two sides of the fabric

Amigurumis are my passion and unsurprisingly, I love seeing the creations of other designers. There are true works of art worthy of admiration. However, on some occasions the appearance of the fabric, the stitches, has caught my attention. At first I didn’t know what it was until crocheting one of my amigurumis I realized: those amigurumis were with the inside out.

Crocheting the amigurumis, shaping the pieces with stitches, increases, decreases, came about in such a natural way for me that I had never considered using the wrong side of the fabric. It just wasn’t aesthetic to me.

The truth is that, when crocheting an amigurumi in rounds, in continuous spiral, the fabric curves to the wrong side, so it is not difficult for inexperienced crocheters to get confused.

However, although we may think that this is not important, the fabric of an amigurumi is not reversible. There are details that can turn the wrong side into an aesthetically unwanted side, although many designers prefer it.

The appearance

At first sight, on the right side of the fabric you can perfectly see each of the rounds and even count them easily.

On the right you can see the rounds and count them easily

In the wrong side, the vertical lines between the stitches stand out, the increases or decreases are marked and there are crowded or displaced stitches that can affect the design.

On the wrong side the vertical lines between the stitches stand out

In practice

But not everything is negative and using the wrong side of the fabric can be interesting to give a different look to a certain piece and make it highlight from the rest.

Look at Sonic’s gloves and socks. When folding the piece, the stitch is reversed and distinguish against the cuffs and legs and feet, giving an original look to the whole.

Another example is found in the color change of this Christmas sock. When you turn it over, the drawing changes and in my opinion, it looks more beautiful.

How do we differentiate the sides of the fabric?

  • To differentiate the right side from the wrong side you must look at the stitches.

On the right you can see the V shape of the stitches, while on the wrong side the straight lines stand out.

  • Another way to differentiate the sides is by observing the way and direction in which you work.

The right side will be the one where you work from the outside rim to the left, moving the hook away from you as you go. You move from near to far.

On the right side we move to the left from near to far

The wrong side, on the other hand, is the one in which you crochet from the inside rim of the piece to the left, bringing the hook towards you as you go. You move from far to near.

On the wrong side we move to the left from far to near

It’s easy to differentiate them, right?

What about you, which side do you like the most? You can give me your opinion in the comments 😉

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The Importance of Details

The importance of details when crocheting amigurumis is something you should keep in mind because making an amigurumi goes far beyond crocheting pieces of yarn, stuff them and sewing them together.

Adding small embroideries, accessories, contrast in color, parts that adapt, sink… are some things you should consider if you want your amigurumi to have personality.

Today I want to talk to you about the importance of Details and give you some tips that I apply myself in my patterns so that you can make your amigurumi really special.

Let’s go!

Most of the details are incorporated into the design in a simple way, at the end, during assembly or even after the doll is finished, and serve to give your amigurumi more realism.

An example of this are Asterix’s water bottle and sword, the tie on the Beast’s mane or Elena’s of Avalor accessories (bracelet, earrings and flowers)

These are small objects that you can quickly crochet and add at the end. If you don’t like them and decide not to incorporate or replace them with others, the essence of the amigurumi will not be affected.

Although these examples are of characters, details are important in any type of amigurumi.

The contrast in the color change can turn a simple piece into a more attractive one.

Look at the dark gray edge of the UFO lights. Adding them to the main piece that is lighter color makes them highlight more in the set.

the importance of the details with the lights of an UFO amigurumi

Using several shades of the same color can also be interesting.

The color change from light yellow to darker yellow in those same lights gives them a more realistic effect.

the importance of the details with the Light of an UFO amigurumi

Incorporating details on the faces of our amigurumi is also something to keep in mind. They serve to add expressiveness and personality to designs.

For example, in Snow White’s eyes we can see several details: The use of a gradient brown color for the iris that gives liveliness to the gaze, the white twinkle on the pupil to fix it, a black border around it that gives it more strength and the top line with eyelashes framing the eye.

the importance of the details in the eyes of Snow white amigurumi

However, giving importance to the details does not mean adding the more, the better. Sometimes something simpler can reflect the expression we seek for our amigurumi. Some lines embroidered as eyes like those of the children of Communion give them the seriousness that the act implies.

the importance of the details in the Children Communion amigurumis

However, there are details that don’t consist of additions, but rather to modify and adapt the shape of a piece according to our needs. Don’t forget that after all, amigurumis are made of yarn and fiberfill. We can take advantage of the characteristics of the materials to get that detail that can make a difference.

Using yarn of the same color as that of your piece and with the help of the yarn needle you can alter its shape.

Popeye’s face, for example, would not be the same if we had not sunk the left side. That allows us to give it its characteristic expression with the pipe.

It’s something as simple as introducing the needle with the yarn in the area you want to sink. Then, hook on the fabric and remove it on the other side, pulling hard. Repeat the operation as many times as necessary until the piece and the stuff have the desired shape. Easy, right?

Sinking the area of ​​the eyes, the mouth, accentuating the cheeks … these are details that can totally change the expression of our amigurumis.

We can not only modify the faces, but any part and thus give it a more beautiful appearance.

Look at this tie. By sinking the sides, we can improve its appearance, don’t you think?

These are just some examples of the importance of details when making our amigurumis.

I hope you have been inspired to add your own details to your creations.

If you want, you can tell me about it in the comments.

Happy and detailed crochet!

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Alternative stuffing for amigurumis

Everyone who wants to make an amigurumi should be clear that he needs at least 3 things: yarn, hook and stuffing.

Today I want to talk about the last one and how we can use alternative stuffing for amigurumis when the right material is not within our reach or is something exceptional.

In my patterns you can read that we use synthetic fiberfill.

But what exactly is synthetic fiberfill?

It is a 100% polyester synthetic fiber also called Polyfill. It is a soft, washable and perfect material to fill your amigurumis because it adapts to the fabric without deforming it. But not only is it used for this, but you can use it as a filling in all kinds of work such as ragdolls, felt creations or cushions. You can find it more compact or lighter.

Sample of synthetic fiberfill
Synthetic fiberfill
Sample of synthetic fiber filling or Polyfill
A more compact synthetic fiber filling

Being clear that this is the ideal filling material, you should not despair if you do not find it or do not have it and want to continue with your work.

Let’s see different “homemade” options that will get you out of trouble:

  • Remains of wool or yarn:

What better option than filling your wool dolls with that same material.

When we crochet, when we finish off, many times we have a piece of yarn that we can’t use because it’s too small. Store all these leftover threads in a box and you can use them as fillers, for example, in small parts of your amigurumis.

Thread leftovers
Thread leftovers
  • Unfinished or unrecoverable projects:

We all make mistakes when crocheting and sometimes it’s not possible to reuse the material to start over with our project. Parts of our failed amigurumis impossible to undo can be used to fill in new ones. The concept is to continue with the idea of ​​the previous point: fill wool with wool.

Sample of an unfinished fabric
Unfinished Project
  • Miscellaneous fabrics:

Recycling old clothes may be another alternative. Soft, fine fabrics such as a handkerchief or nylon stockings, or more rigid, such as tulle or even the foam of shoulder pads. Cut them to fill large pieces or to give consistency to certain parts.

Nylon stockings.  Alternative stuffing for amigurumis.
Nylon stockings
Shoulder pad.  Alternative stuffing for amigurumis.
Foam of a shoulder pad
Tulle.  Alternative stuffing for amigurumis.
Handkerchief.  Alternative stuffing for amigurumis.

As you can see, there are several the alternative stuffing for amigurumis you can go to, always taking into account that if you want a good result, you should consider them as something exceptional.

What about you? What is the rarest stuffing you’ve used for your amigurumis? Tell me in the comments.