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Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

Enjoy the free Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

Although the origin of this celebration is Irish, in an increasingly globalized world, it can be said that today it is celebrated worldwide, including Spain and of course, my land, Galicia.

Our common Celtic roots connect us historically and culturally with Ireland.

Thus, for example, the Tower of Hercules, in A Coruña, has Celtic elements, among which the statue of King Breogán stands out, who, according to Irish legends, founded Brigantia and built a Tower so high that it allowed one to see the coasts of Ireland.

Breogán is considered the mythological father of the Galician people, Galicia being poetically described as “Fogar de Breogán” (Home of Breogán) and this is even reflected in the Galician anthem.

To celebrate, I bring you a small detail that, as you know, is one of the symbols of Saint Patrick’s Day:

Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

It is a very easy and quick pattern to make and it is super nice as a keychain. I have made it with 3 leaves, but if you want it to give you more luck, you only have to add one more leaf…

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Shamrock Keychain Amigurumi Pattern

MATERIALS

-Green color yarn

– 3 mm yarn.

– Hook according to the size of the yarn.

– Yarn needle.

– Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet

st: stitch

inc: increase

dec: decrease

Size: 2,7” /7 cm

Difficulty: Low

Estimated time: 1,5 h

Hook: 2 mm

LEAVES (x3):

With green yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (6).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (12).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (15).

6. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

DIVIDE:

1. From the place where you are, that is, from the round marker, count the previous 8 sc, which together with the marked sc will form the half of 9 sc of the piece. Join in the last sc of the 8 with a sc, place the round marker and crochet the 9 sc (9).

2. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (6).

Stuff the piece almost completely. Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

To crochet the other half, join, with the part you just crocheted placed on the left, in the first of the sc and work in the last a sc.

Place the marker and continue working following the same pattern.

Stuff completely. Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

Sew the small gap that has remained between the two halves with the yarn needle.

CENTRAL PART AND STEM:

With green yarn

1. Work 7 sc in magic ring

2. Ch 13 and work 12 slip stitches on the chains, 1 slip stitch in the origin stitch of the chains.

Fasten off.

Sew a first leaf through its magic ring to 3 sc of the center part. Do it next to the stem. Sew the next 2 leaves over the last sc of the center where you sewed the previous one and into the next 2 sc. In this way you will have sewn the 3 leaves on the 6 sc of the magic ring of the central part.

Finished!

I hope you liked the brief historical reference and enjoy crocheting the pattern.

See you soon!

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Santa Claus amigurumi

At the end of 2021 I want to wish you a Happy Holidays with the pattern of this little Santa Claus amigurumi that I am sure you will love.

MATERIALS

  • Yarn of different colors: white, black, skin color, red, yellow.
  • Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
  • Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • sc: single crochet
  • st: stitch
  • ch: chain
  • inc: increase
  • dec: decrease

Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

HEAD / BODY

With skin color yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat to the end of the round (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. to 11. 1 sc in each stitch (30).

12. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

13. 1 sc in each stitch (24).

14. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

15. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

16. Dec in every st (6).

17. Inc in every st (12).

18. Change to White yarn and work “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

19. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only 1 sc in each stitch (18). You will return to this round to complete the collar.

20. and 21. 1 sc in each st (18).

22. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

23. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

24. 1 sc in each st (30).

25. Work 1 sc in back loops only (30). You will return to this round to complete the jacket.

26. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

27. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

28. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

29. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off.

Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

Complete the collar

With white yarn

Return to round 19 and holding the doll with the head pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each stitch (18).

Fasten off.

Complete the jacket

With red yarn

1. Return to round 25 and holding the doll with the head pointing down, work in the free loops 1 sc in each stitch (30).

2. 1 sc in each st (30).

3. Change to white yarn and work 1 sc in each st (30).

Fasten off.

ARMS (x2)

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only 1 sc in each stitch (6). You will return to this round to complete the sleeve.

5. to 8. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off.

Complete the sleeve

With white yarn

Return to round 4 of the arm and holding it with the hand pointing down work in the free loops inc in every st (12).

Fasten off.

FEET / LEGS (x2)

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12)

3. and 4. 1 sc in each stitch (12).

5. Dec in every st (6).

6. Change to red yarn and work in back loops only inc in every st (12). You will return to this round to complete the pants.

7. and 8. 1 sc in each stitch (12).

9. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off.

Complete the pants

With white yarn

1. Return to round 6 of the leg and holding it with the foot pointing up, work in the free loops inc in every st (12).

2. 1 sc in each st (12).

Fasten off.

HAT

With red yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

5. and 6. 1 sc in each st (9).

7. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (12).

8. and 9. 1 sc in each st (12).

10. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (15).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (15).

13. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

14. and 15. 1 sc in each st (18).

16. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

17. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

18. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

19. “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).

20. to 22. 1 sc in each st (42).

23. “5 sc, dec”, repeat (36).

24. Change to white yarn and work 1 sc in each st in front loops only (36). You will return to this round to join the edge of the hat.

25. to 30. 1 sc in each st (36).

31. Join with slip stitches the sc from the last round with the loops from round 24.

Fasten off.

Pompom

With white yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. In back loops only work inc in every st(12).

3. In back loops only work “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. and 5. In back loops only work 1 sc in each stitch (18).

6. In back loops only work “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

7. Dec in all stitches (6).

8. Turn the piece and work in the free loops: 1 slip stitch, ch 3 in the same stitch, 1 slip stitch in that same stitch. In this way you are going to crochet some small waves around the pompom until you reach the beginning of it.

Sew the pompom to the tip of the hat.

EARS (x2)

With skin color yarn

Work 6 sc in magic ring Ring without closing with the slip stitch.

NOSE

With skin color yarn

1. Work 8 sc in magic ring.

2. to 4. 1 sc in each st (8).

Fasten off.

BEARD

With white yarn

1. Ch 13 and work 12 sc on thdm

2. and 3. Ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each stitch (12).

4. to 8. Don’t ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each st until you reach the last 2 sc, then dec 1 (10), (8), (6), (4), (2).

9. Place the round marker to start working around the piece with sc: 8 sc + Ch 5 and work 4 sc on the chains and 1 slip stitch to the point of origin of the chains (first sideburn) +Ch 5 and work 4 sc on the chains and 1 slip stitch to the point of origin of the chains (second sideburn) + 8 sc + 2 sc.

Fasten off.

BELT

With black yarn

Ch 31 and work 30 sc on the chains.

Belt buckle

With yellow yarn

Ch 3, 1 slip stitch on the last chain, Ch 3 , 1 slip stitch on the last chain of this group of 3, Ch 3, 1 slip stitch on the last chain of this group, Ch 2, 1 slip stitch on the first chain of all.

Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the beard on round 12 of the head.

Centered on it, in that same round, sew the nose.

Underneath, with black yarn embroider the mouth in a V shape and above the beard, that is, on round 12 on both sides of the nose embroider the eyes in a reverse V shape, leaving 2 sc of separation in their open part.

With white yarn, embroider the eyebrows, leaving 1 sc of separation over the eyes and with a length of 3 sc.

Sew the hat by placing it over the eyebrows and adjusting it behind the head, leaving 4 sc of separation from the neck line. The hat will cover part of the sideburns. Sew the ears over them so that the hat is on top, giving the doll a funny look. Fold the tip of the hat to the side and sew the pompom to it in a hidden way to keep the shape.

Sew the belt leaving 3 sc of separation from the last round of the jacket and on this, centered the buckle.

Sew the arms in line in relation to the ears under the color change line of the white collar and red jacket.

Finally, sew the legs centered on the lower part of the body, leaving 1 sc of separation from the last round of the body.

Finished your Santa Claus Amigurumi! It was easy, right?

See you very soon

Happy Holidays and Happy Crochet!

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How to know the weight of the yarn

How to know the weight of the yarn quickly and easily is an important matter for all of us who like to crochet.

As you know, one of the most important characteristics of my patterns is that the resulting amigurumis are “totally soft”. I do not use hard elements such as wires, buttons, zippers or even safety eyes. You can crochet them only with wool or yarn, a crochet hook and fiberfill.

Since these are the only materials that I use, it is essential that they be the most suitable to achieve the desired result.

There are many of you who ask me what type of yarn I use and since we are all from different places, sometimes it is difficult for me to explain and talk about centimeters, inches and categories according to their thickness.

Today I am going to talk about yarns, more specifically, how to know the weight of the yarn when you do not have any reference, for example, if you have a mysterious ball of yarn of which you have lost the label that specifies its characteristics.

But first, there are some things you should know about yarns to make it easier for you to choose the right one when crocheting your amigurumis.

Yarns are classified into several categories, but unfortunately, there is no single method to do so.

In general, there are:

The standards of the CYC (Craft Yarn Council) that represents the most prominent members of the yarn industry in the United States.

Depending on the weight of the yarn, we can classify it into the following categories:

The classification according to the number of plies that the yarn has. This system is the one used in the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand.

The problem with this classification is that it does not determine the thickness of the yarn, but rather the number of strands that are twisted to form it. There is the possibility that a yarn of 5 strands (5 ply) may be thinner than a yarn of 3 (3 ply), by the mere fact that each strand is of a lesser thickness or have been spun with greater tension between them.

• Wraps per inch method (WPI)

As its name suggests, it is about classifying the yarn according to the wraps of the same that fit in an inch or what is the same, in 2.5 cm.

It is a very useful method to determine the weight of that mysterious ball of yarn without a label that you want to use, but you must bear in mind that it is not exact, since there are factors that can alter the measurement.

To use it you need:

• A rule.

• Something to wrap the yarn with uniform thickness. You can use, for example, a pencil or a pen.

It’s easy:

1. You must wrap the yarn so that each strand is next to each other, that is, they do not overlap. Do it carefully, do not tighten too much, or leave it loose, since you could vary the result too much.

2. With the ruler measure 1 inch or what is the same 2.5 cm. That is the length you should wrap.

3. When you have it, count the wraps you have made and guide yourself through this cheat sheet. Depending on the number of wraps, this will be the weight and category to which your yarn belongs.

If you have doubts, first try to do it with a yarn whose weight you know.

Let’s see some examples:

This picture shows the yarn that I normally use in my patterns. Using this method, I have made 17 WPI. That places it in category 2 Fine.

How to know the weight of the yarn

This other, on the other hand, is much thicker and for that reason I have only made 9 WPI. It belongs to category 5 Bulky.

How to know the weight of the yarn

Finally, we have a much finer yarn with which I have managed to make 28 WPI. It belongs to category 0 Lace.

How to know the weight of the yarn

As you can see, it is a very simple method, but remember that it is not exact, but only an aid that will help you guide yourself.

Until next time!

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St. James’ Cake Amigurumi Pattern

As you know, I am from Galicia and as I have done on previous occasions as in the Galician Octopus Amigurumi Pattern, I want to show you a little bit of my land through the St James Cake Amigurumi Pattern.

I have designed a New collection of “delicious” kawaii-style amigurumis

Delicious Amigurumis: 18 patterns to crochet amigurumi food

And I thought I could take advantage of and show you one of the most representative desserts of my land:

St. James’ Cake (Tarta de Santiago)

Do you know it? It is a very simple recipe since it is made only with almonds, sugar and eggs, with a little bit of cinnamon and lemon zest.

It’s delicious! But what makes it unmistakable is the drawing of St. James’ cross on the surface made with a template on which we sprinkle icing sugar.

Here you have the St-James’ Cake Amigurumi Pattern that you can also turn into a funny keychain. I hope you like it!

  • Size: 2,3″ / 6 cm
  • Difficulty: High
  • Estimated Time: 8 h
  • Hook size: 2 mm

MATERIALS

  • Yarn of different colors: white, black, beige, light beige.
  • Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
  • Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Sc: single crochet
  • St: stitch
  • Inc: increase
  • Dec: decrease
  • Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

If you have doubts about the stitches visit: Basic Stitches to Crochet Amigurumis

BODY

With beige yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).
4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).
5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).
6. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).
7. “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).
8. 1 sc in each st (42).

9. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (42). You will return to this round to complete the cake.
10. and 11. 1 sc in each st (42).
12. Work in back loops only 1 sc in each st (42). You will return to this round to complete the cake.

13. “5 sc, dec”, repeat (36).
14. “4 sc, dec”, repeat (30).
15. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).
16. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).
17. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).
18. Dec in every st (6).
Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

Complete the Cake

With beige yarn

Return to round 9 and holding the piece with the magic ring pointing down, work 1 sc in each st (42). Fasten off

1. Return to round 12 and holding the piece with the last round pointing down, work 1 sc in each st (42).
2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (42).

4. Join with sc the 42 sc of each side (42).

St James Cake Amigurumi Pattern

ICING SUGAR PART

With white yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).
4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).
5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).
6. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).
7. “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).
8. 1 sc in each st (42).
Fasten off.

ST. JAMES’ CROSS

Bottom

With beige yarn

1. Ch 5 and work 4 sc on the chains.
2. Ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each st (4).
3. Don’t ch 1, turn, work 1 sc in each st until you reach the last 2 sc, then dec 1 (2).
4. Ch 1, turn and work 1 sc in each st (2).
5. Don’t ch 1, turn and work 1 sc.

6. Place the round marker to work around the piece with sc. Work: 5 sc + 4 sc + 5 sc + 1 sc.
Fasten off.

Cross

With beige yarn

Work “Ch 4, 3 sc in the chains” 2 times, 1 slip st in the middle, “Ch 4, 3 sc in the chains, 1 slip st in the middle” 2 times.
Fasten off.

Top

With beige yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Ch 2, 1 slip st in the chains, 1 slip st in the st beginning of the chains, 2 sc in the magic ring, Ch 4, 3 slip stitches in the chains, 1 slip st in the st beginning of the chains, 2 sc in the magic ring, Ch 4, 3 slip stitches in the chains, 1 slip st in the st beginning of the chains, 1 sc in the magic ring, 1 final slip st.
Fasten off.

Sides (x2)

With beige yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.
2. Ch 1, 1 sc, Ch 4, 3 slip stitches in the chains, 1 slip st in the middle, Ch 4, 3 slip stitches in the chains, 1 slip st in the middle.
Fasten off.

EYES (x2)

With black yarn

Work 6 sc in magic ring.
Fasten off. With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

Final Details

Sew the icing sugar part on the piece of cake. To give a cottony look, lightly brush the wool once it is sewn.

Sew the bottom, top and sides over the cross above this piece and once you have the complete Cross, sew it onto the cake. The piece of the cross that you have crocheted does not have a well-defined shape, but it will help you so that once sewn, you can embroider around it, outlining the edges. This is the trickiest part of the pattern. Do it carefully, taking the thread of the piece and sewing over it in short lengths.



Finally, sew the eyes under the sides of the cross and embroider with light beige yarn the mouth at the bottom, leaving a little beige to show between it and the white part.

Finished!

I hope you have enjoyed the St James Cake Amigurumi Pattern

Don’t miss the new collection of delicious amigurumis!

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Right side and wrong side in amigurumis

The two sides of the fabric

Amigurumis are my passion and unsurprisingly, I love seeing the creations of other designers. There are true works of art worthy of admiration. However, on some occasions the appearance of the fabric, the stitches, has caught my attention. At first I didn’t know what it was until crocheting one of my amigurumis I realized: those amigurumis were with the inside out.

Crocheting the amigurumis, shaping the pieces with stitches, increases, decreases, came about in such a natural way for me that I had never considered using the wrong side of the fabric. It just wasn’t aesthetic to me.

The truth is that, when crocheting an amigurumi in rounds, in continuous spiral, the fabric curves to the wrong side, so it is not difficult for inexperienced crocheters to get confused.

However, although we may think that this is not important, the fabric of an amigurumi is not reversible. There are details that can turn the wrong side into an aesthetically unwanted side, although many designers prefer it.

The appearance

At first sight, on the right side of the fabric you can perfectly see each of the rounds and even count them easily.

On the right you can see the rounds and count them easily

In the wrong side, the vertical lines between the stitches stand out, the increases or decreases are marked and there are crowded or displaced stitches that can affect the design.

On the wrong side the vertical lines between the stitches stand out

In practice

But not everything is negative and using the wrong side of the fabric can be interesting to give a different look to a certain piece and make it highlight from the rest.

Look at Sonic’s gloves and socks. When folding the piece, the stitch is reversed and distinguish against the cuffs and legs and feet, giving an original look to the whole.

Another example is found in the color change of this Christmas sock. When you turn it over, the drawing changes and in my opinion, it looks more beautiful.

How do we differentiate the sides of the fabric?

  • To differentiate the right side from the wrong side you must look at the stitches.

On the right you can see the V shape of the stitches, while on the wrong side the straight lines stand out.

  • Another way to differentiate the sides is by observing the way and direction in which you work.

The right side will be the one where you work from the outside rim to the left, moving the hook away from you as you go. You move from near to far.

On the right side we move to the left from near to far

The wrong side, on the other hand, is the one in which you crochet from the inside rim of the piece to the left, bringing the hook towards you as you go. You move from far to near.

On the wrong side we move to the left from far to near

It’s easy to differentiate them, right?

What about you, which side do you like the most? You can give me your opinion in the comments 😉

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Ghost Amigurumi Pattern

Halloween is coming and what better way to celebrate this unusual year than with the ghost amigurumi pattern to get a cute little ghost that I’m sure you are going to love.

Let’s begin to crochet our little ghost (If you want to download the pattern you can do it below):

Size: 4″/10 cm
Difficulty: Low
Estimated time: 1 h
Hook size: 2 mm

MATERIALS

  • Yarn: white and black
  • Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
  • Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

HEAD/BODY

With white yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. to 4. 1 sc in each st (4).

5. 2 inc, 1 dec (5).

6. 3 inc, 1 dec (7).

7. 1 dec, 3 inc, 1 dec (8).

8. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (12).

9. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

10. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

11. to 16. 1 sc in each st (24).

17. and 18. Dec in every st (12), (6).

19. Inc in every st (12).

20. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

21. “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 3 dec (21).

22. 2 dec, “4 sc, inc” 3 times, 1 dec (21).

23. 4 sc, “4 sc, inc” 3 times, 2 sc (24).

24. and 25. 1 sc in each st (24).

26. “1 sc, inc” 4 times, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, “1 sc, inc” 2 times (27).

27. “1 sc, inc” 4 times, “3 sc, dec” 3 times, “1 sc, inc” 2 times (30).

28. and 29. 1 sc in each st (30).

30. 13 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 5 sc (27).

31. 11 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 4 sc (24).

32. 9 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 3 sc (21).

33. 7 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 2 sc (18).

34. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

35. and 36. 1 sc in each st (12).

37. Dec in every st (6).

38. 1 sc in each st (6).
Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

ARMS (x2)

With white yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. to 10. 1 sc in each st (6).
Fasten off.
Sew them leaving 3 sc of separation from the neck line.

EYES (x2)

With black yarn
Work 4 sc in magic ring.
With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

FACE

To find out where you have to place the ghost’s face, you must look at the tips of the head and the end of the body. Our ghost seen from the front will have the tip of the head to the left and back, while the tip of the body will go to the right and forward.

Once you are sure about where you should place the face, start placing its elements:
Sew the eyes from round 13 t o 15, embroidering around them with the black yarn to soften the rounded shape. Leave 3 sc of separation between them in their central part.

ghost amigurumi pattern

2 sc over the eyes, embroider with black yarn the eyebrows 2 sc long.
Centered under the eyes embroider the mouth. It will have a separation of 1 sc in relation to these in its upper part and 2 in the low part and a length of 3 sc.

You already have it! A cute little amigurumi ghost!

ghost amigurumi pattern

Descarga el patrón en Español aquí

If you have crochet the ghost amigurumi pattern and you liked it, you can send me the photo and I will post it in the gallery for everyone to see.

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Straight edges: Importance of turning chains

Whether you are a beginner or if your level is more advanced, it is important that you have some basic crochet knowledge. This will help you easily follow a pattern or even adapt it to your needs. In today’s tutorial: Straight Edges: Importance of Turning Chains, I want to talk to you about one of the basic stitches: The chain, more specifically The Turning Chain and the importance of its correct use when making the pieces of our amigurumis straighter.

Many of you have asked me about this stitch that I use frequently in my patterns when crocheting in rows. Let’s see what it is:

A turning chain is just that, a chain that we crochet before turning and starting a new row. Its function is to provide us with a certain gap or height so that we can start crocheting at the first stitch in the row and thus keep the edge straight. Their presence does not count when determining the total count of stitches in the row, but their absence does mean the decrease of one of the points in the row: the first.

You will see it more clearly with an example:

We need to crochet a straight piece 12 sc long. For this we start with 12 chains?

If we work 12 chains, when we return crocheting sc over the chains, we will not be able to start in the first chain, there is no space to do it, so we must crochet over the second and when completing the row we will have 11 sc instead of 12.

To have the row of 12 sc, we must start with 13 chains and use the last of them to gain that space we need. This last chain will therefore be a Turning Chain.

When crochet consecutive rows, if we want to keep the edges of our piece straight, we must use the turning chain in the same way, that is, when we reach the end of the row, we make a chain that allows us to turn and start crocheting in the first sc.

Turning chain at the end of the row
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
Turn and start crocheting in the first single crochet
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
With turning chain
Without turning chain

In our example, we have used single crochets, but what if the rows we need have to be worked with other points? In these cases, we have to take into account the height of these stitches when using the turning chains to gain the necessary space and not fall short or excess.

We have already seen that 1 turning chain is used for a row crocheted with single crochets. The next stitch in height is the half double crochet. For it we will continue using 1 chain.

With the double crochet, on the other hand, it will be necessary to add a turning chain. Before turning and starting a new row, we will have to chain 2.

Chain 2, turn and start crocheting in the third chain

Following our example:

If we need to work a 12 double crochet piece, we will have to chain 14 and start crocheting in the third chain, using the last 2 chains as if they were the first double crochet in the row.

In the same way, when we continue crocheting rows, we must continue using 2 chains as a double crochet in the corners to keep the edges straight.

Chain 2 as a first double crochet
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
Chain 2, turn and begin in the first stitch
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
With 2 turning chains and double crochet
Without turning chains

If with the double crochet we have to use 2 chains, with a treble crochet we will have to use 3 and crochet in the same way: Chain 15 to have a row of 12 treble crochet and 3 turning chains in the following rows.

Chain 3, turn and begin in the fourth chain
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
Chain 3, turn and begin in the first stitch
Straight edges: Importance of turning chains
With 3 turning chains and treble crochet
Without turning chains

Recap:

Straight edges: Importance of turning chains

As you can see, to get straight edges you need to take into account the importance of the turning chains.

Did you like it? It’s not difficult, is it?

Until next time! ?

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Female Doctor Amigurumi Pattern

Download this Female Doctor amigurumi pattern for free and crochet it #StayAtHome

We are going through difficult times around the world and now more than ever we must stay together.

The apparition of coronavirus (COVID-19) and its rapid expansion among the population is something that should concern all of us.

Spain is one of the most affected countries, but whether you live here or anywhere else, you cannot be indifferent to the problem.

After the declaration of the State of alarm by the Spanish Government, we are forced to stay at home in order to avoid infections. It is an exercise of responsibility that we all must carry out, not only for ourselves, but for the others.

We must put individualism aside and think of those around us, especially those most vulnerable to disease: elderly and children.

Together we can reduce the expansion of the virus.

#Stayathome and facilitate the commendable work that health personnel are doing to ensure our health, putting their own at risk.

That’s why I would like to contribute with my grain of sand by sharing this pattern of a Female Doctor Amigurumi.

I think that will alleviate the period of isolation.

It also serves as my humble personal thanks to all the professionals who take care of us every day.

THANK YOU!

#StayAtHome

And if you prefer it in Spanish, click here

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Safe Amigurumis for Babies

Hello!

When designing the amigurumis in the farm, in addition to ensuring that the pattern is clear, simple, well explained and gives rise to a cute doll, I have a great responsibility: that the design is adequate for the most vulnerable,  babies and small children.

Whether you are a designer or weaver, father, mother, grandparent or simply want to have a detail with that little loved one, you must have in mind certain requirements that amigurumis must satisfy to fully guarantee the safety of the child.
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Crochet and Amigurumis as Therapy

Sometimes we forget that on the other side of a message there is a real person, of flesh and blood, with problems, concerns, in short, a life.

Through this passion that joins us, I have discovered that crocheting amigurumis is more than making a doll with yarn, hook and fiberfill.

Starting with myself, the amigurumis have helped me to improve my self-esteem and to cope with moments of great sadness or worry. They have been a distraction, a relief and on many occasions the necessary push that has prevented me from falling into discouragement.

Since I started this adventure, there have been many messages that I have received. Messages of all kinds, from daily consultations related to patterns, to thanks or congratulations, but without a doubt, the messages that move me most are those in which you make me a participant in the reasons that have led you to crochet amigurumis:

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