Blog - Sueños Blanditos

Posted on 12 June, 202312 June, 2023 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Designing an amigurumi (Part I): Pale pink rose

The month of June begins and my garden is filled with my favorite roses, pale pink in color and an unmistakable aroma that takes me back to childhood. It would be fun to crochet one, but how?

Designing an amigurumi: Part I

Once I am sure about what I want to design, I need to have a visual model, drawing, photo or even the object itself. In this case, a rose.

It must be clear that our model must be just that, a reference to follow, but not something fixed that limits us. In my opinion, if amigurumis have something, it is that we can give wings to our imagination and capture our own tastes in them, without distorting the object they reflect.

If I’m strict, this time it’s not an amigurumi itself, I’ll explain why: I wanted to do it in a different way, without fiber fill but with volume, using the basic crochet stitches, without changing color and except for a small part, crochet in rows.

But let’s start at the beginning:

Materials:

Very light pink and olive green yarns.
2 mm crochet hook.
Yarn needle.
Scissors.
Paper and pen.

Start with the main part, the body of the rose with the petals.

I want to work straight, in rows, but to give shape and volume to my rose I need the fabric to be crocheted to roll around itself.

I really admire the work of other colleagues, but one cannot limit oneself to seeing other amigurumi crocheters. There are true artisan artists whose techniques are worthy of admiration and, why not, extrapolated to our field.

I remember seeing some molds for making fondant roses to decorate cakes in a well-known online store. With them an elongated piece was formed with waves on the sides that had to be folded and wrap. It was different from what I had seen in crochet and it was worth trying.

I start the pattern:

PALE PINK ROSE AMIGURUMI PATTERN

PETALS

With very light Pink yarn

The first row will determine the width of the flower, while the total number of rows will determine its height. A 60 sc piece, in addition to having the size I need, makes things easier when dividing the petals, as there are both 30 and 60 even numbers and divisible by 3.

1. Ch 31 and work 30 sc in the chains.

2. I Continue working in the beginning chains, but in the other side another 30 sc to have a 60 sc piece in all (60).

I already have the piece, but it needs to be wider.

3. I Place the round marker to work 1 sc in each st (60).

4. 1 sc in each st (60).

5. It’s time to start crocheting the petals:

The shape of the rose determines the size of the petals. When having to roll it, they have to go from smaller to larger size, since their position will be from the inside to the outside. To separate the petals from each other I use the slip stitch and to gain height and size of the petals I work several stitches into one and use more stitches from the piece to crochet each petal.

1) 1 double crochet, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

2) 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

3) 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next.

So far I have occupied 6 sc of the 30 that form half of the piece.

4) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

5) 2 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

6) 3 double crochet in the next one, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next one, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

With these three petals I have occupied 12 more sc, so I have crocheted 18 sc in all. I have 12 sc left to crochet over.

The simplest thing is to make 2 final petals of the same size, each occupying 6 sc.

7) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

8) 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 3 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochet in the next stitch, 1 slip stitch in the next stitch.

I have already crocheted over the 30 sc that form half of the piece.

Now I have to work over the other half following the same pattern, but in reverse, that is, when I have to roll the piece, I must start with this last petal up to the first.

Once the 8 petals are completed, I fasten off leaving a long thread to be able to sew the rose when giving it shape.

For that, I fold the piece in half and roll it.

Once it’s the shape I like, I pin it in place. I sew along the back, holding the loops carefully so they don’t separate, but leaving the petals loose.

Once the flower is finished, it is time to complete it with some leaves.

I want to cover the back of the rose, but since I don’t use fiberfill, a flat circular piece is best. Around it I will crochet the leaves. Again I am going to use even numbers divisible by 3. In this case starting with a 6 sc magic ring.

LEAVES

With olive green yarn

1. I Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

These 18 sc are enough to cover the back.

It is time to start crocheting the leaves. The idea is to do it in rows in one time. For this, I’ll use a combination of chains and sc around the main 18 sc piece. The number of chains will determine the length of the leaves and the stitches that occupy in the piece their total number. Each one will occupy 1 sc, so this time it will be the separation stitches between them that will determine the number of leaves. Being 18 sc the total stitches to crochet the leaves, the easiest thing is to make 6 leaves occupying 3 sc each, that is, 1 sc for the leaf and 2 sc separating them.

4. 1 sc, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains. “3 sc on the base piece, ch 7, 6 sc in the chains, 1 slip stitch over the origin point of the chains” 5 times, 2 sc.

I have already part of the 6 leaves.

The leaves need to be shaped by incorporating some detail such as irregular edges. For this I am going to continue working around the piece, bordering the leaves adding something as simple as some chains.

5. 1 sc, I work in the side of the chains: “1 slip st + ch 2 + 1 slip st, 1 slip st in the next chain” 3 times. I Continue crocheting in the other side of the leaf following the same pattern. 3 sc on the base piece to work on the next leaf following the same pattern. I Repeat until completing the 6 leaves and the round.

I fasten off leaving a long thread of wool to sew the piece on the back of the rose. Place the magic ring outside.

And the Rose is finished! Do you like it?

But this is the first version of the pattern and there are things to review and even modify. For example, adding height to the final petals, a touch of color to the initial ones. Maybe I should place the leaves in a way that is not so symmetrical, or modifying their size. Designing a pattern means giving it many turns, correcting, rectifying, even after finishing it.

I hope you like both the pattern and the tutorial Designing an amigurumi (Part I) and find it useful.

See you in the next one!

Posted on 16 May, 202316 May, 2023 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Several ways to decrease

Do you know there are several ways to decrease?

One of the things that anyone who wants to crochet amigurumis must master with skill is making increases and decreases.

Today I am going to talk about the latter and the importance of doing them correctly.

In a previous post I have already told you about the decrease rounds, which are those in which we remove stitches crocheting sequences with decreases. In this way we reduce the width of our piece, modify its shape or even finish it.

Let’s see what are the different ways to decrease:

Skip a Point:

It is the basic method, but not recommended if what you want is a good aesthetic result.

Consists in:

Crochet the stitch over the second of the 2 stitches in which you must decrease, leaving the first one unworked. In theory you make a decrease, so you reduce the number of stitches. In practice, you leave holes in the fabric and a untidy look to the piece. Using it when working in the round is not a good idea, so its only use would be at the beginning of a row when we work straight.

The Traditional Method:

It is the simplest and the most used by beginners.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook, which already has a loop on it, in the first stitch where you must decrease. Take the thread, and return. Now you have 2 loops on the hook.

2. Then introduce the hook in the next stitch and do the same. You already have 3 loops on the hook.

3. To finish the decrease take the thread and go through the 3 loops in one go.

If you realize, in steps 1 and 2 it is about starting to work the first part of 1 single crochet without actually finishing it, while in step number 3 you complete it.

In this way you join the 2 points, leaving only one.

Although this method is better than the previous one, the fabric is not clean, leaving small bumps or even holes in it.

The Invisible Decrease

It is the method used by more experienced crocheters looking for a neat and tidy appearance in their amigurumis.

To execute it, you must first look at the points. They have 2 parts, one in front and one in back.

When crocheting, you normally take the entire stitch with the hook, that is, the 2 parts, but sometimes you must take only one. This is what you will do in the invisible decrease.

Consists in:

1. Insert the hook only in front loop of the first stitch in which you must decrease.

2. Insert the hook in front loop of the second stitch.

3. Take the thread and cross those 2 parts.

4. To finish, with 2 loops on the hook, take the thread and complete the single crochet.

In this way you go from having 2 points to only 1, but unlike the previous method, the aesthetic result is much better. The fabric is even, without lumps or holes.

On the other hand, inside the piece you can see the back loops of the stitches that you have left unworked, something that you must take into account if you leave that part visible.

It’s not that difficult, is it? Do you dare to practice crocheting any of my patterns?

If so, send me the photo for everyone to see in the Gallery!

Posted on 1 February, 20231 February, 2023 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

How to close our amigurumis

Do you have difficulties fastening off your amigurumis? Do not miss this tutorial on How to Close our amigurumis.

Fastening off the pieces of our amigurumis correctly is an important task, not only so that the stuff does not come out due to a badly closed last round, but also so that it is aesthetically beautiful.

When we crochet our piece in rounds, with spiral rounds and beginning with the magic ring, the ideal is to try to achieve that there are no differences between the last round and the first. Closing the last round can be somewhat difficult, since we usually do not have enough space to decrease the stitches with the crochet hook.

How do we do it then?

We have to use the yarn needle, joining the remaining stitches until we completely close the piece.

Let’s see it step by step. You will see that it is very simple:

1. Once the last round is over, you must prepare to start closing. To do this, work 1 slip stitch in the next stitch and tie a knot over it. Cut the thread, leaving enough tail to sew around the last round.

2. Thread the yarn needle with the yarn and pass it through the front loop of the first 2 stitches as a decrease. To do this, take the 2 loops together and thread the needle through them. Pull the thread a little. You have already joined the first 2 stitches.

3. Continue taking the next front 2 loops at a time, passing the needle through them to join until you reach the last 2. Pass through them in the same way, but this time form a final knot. Now you have closed the last round.

4. All that remains is to fasten off losing the excess thread inside the piece. Introduce it through the center of this last round that you have just closed, go through the amigurumi and cut.

Easy, right? And the result has been perfect.

This is how I do it, and you? Tell us your method to close your amigurumis in the comments!

Posted on 9 November, 20229 November, 2022 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

Enjoy crocheting the Chestnut amigurumi pattern!

It is chestnut time and here in my land, in Galicia, we have the tradition of celebrating the Magosto.

Do you know it? It is a popular festival that takes place in all corners of the community between the end of October and the beginning of November and whose main ingredients are chestnuts, fire and wine.

I remember when I was little the Magosto celebration at school, with the roasted chestnuts prepared by the older ones, the fun games and our faces painted with the charcoal from the bonfires (there was no wine there, of course)

There are several theories about the origin of this tradition.

Some say that it is linked to the end of the chestnut harvest, given the importance of this fruit both in gastronomy and in the Galician economy before the arrival of the potato from America.

Another more magical theory, given that the magosto is usually celebrated at the beginning of November, relates it to the celebration of Samaín, a Celtic tradition later transformed into All Saints’ Day, on November 1. And there is also the saying: “Por San Martiño faise o magosto, con castañas asadas e viño ou mosto” (For San Martín the Magosto is made, with roasted chestnuts and wine or grape juice) (San Martin is celebrated on November 11)

They say that at that time Celtic rituals were performed that linked wine with life and chestnuts with death, each roasted chestnut symbolizing a soul that was freed from purgatory. How curious, right?

To celebrate this tradition with you I bring you a small gift:

Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern

It is a simple pattern, with which you can crochet a funny chestnut with its bur, Kawaii style and like all my designs “totally soft”

Patrón en español

Let’s begin!

Size: 2,7” / 7 cm

Difficulty: Medium

Estimated time: 8 h

Hook: 2 mm

MATERIALS
– Yarn of different colors: white, black, brown, light brown, light green.
– Thickness of the yarn: 3 mm.
– Hook according to the thickness of the yarn.
– Yarn needle.
– Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease
BLO: Back Loops Only
Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

BODY

With Brown yarn

1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.

2. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (6).

3. 1 sc in each st (6).

4. “1 sc, inc”, repeat (9).

5. Inc in every st (18).

6. and 7. 1 sc in each st (18).

8. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

9. “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (30).

10. “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, inc” 3 times, 6 sc (36).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (36).

13. 1 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, inc” 6 times, 5 sc (48).

14. to 17. 1 sc in each st (48).

18. 3 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 6 times, 3 sc (36).

19. and 20. 1 sc in each st (36).

21. 4 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “2 sc, dec” 3 times, 2 sc (30).

22. Change to light brown yarn and work 5 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 6 sc, “1 sc, dec” 3 times, 1 sc (24).

23. 1 dec, “2 sc, dec” 5 times, 2 sc (18).

24. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

25. Dec in every st (6).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

CHESTNUT BUR

With light green yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. From this round and the next ones you are going to work in back loops only: Inc in every st (12).

3. BLO “1 sc, inc”, repeat (18).

4. BLO “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. BLO “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. BLO “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

7. BLO “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).

8. BLO “6 sc, inc”, repeat (48).

9. BLO “7 sc, inc”, repeat (54).

10. and 11. BLO 1 sc in each st (54).

12. BLO “7 sc, dec”, repeat (48).

13. 1 sc in the post of each st (48).

Fasten off.

COMPLETE THE BUR

With light green yarn

Start working in the free loops from the final round until the beginning of the piece. Work the following sequence: “1 sc, ch 3, 2 slip st in the chains, 1 slip st in the point origin of the chains, 1 sc in the next st” Repeat to the end.

Fasten off.

EYES (x2)

Background

With White yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. Inc in every st (12).

Fasten off.

Pupil

With black yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.

2. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off.

Sew the pupil attached to the bottom of the white background and the whole eye leaving 10 sc of separation from the pointed part of the chestnut and 3 sc of separation between them in the middle part. With white yarn embroider the twinkle.

Centered under the eyes, leaving 1 sc of separation, embroider the mouth with light brown yarn.

Finished!

I hope you enjoy crocheting this cute chestnut and that you liked the history of this tradition!

Remember that if you crochet it you can send me the photos by email or comment on what you want here in the post.

See you soon!

If you liked the Chestnut Amigurumi Pattern, you may want to see other patterns related to Galicia:

St. James’ Cake

Patrón Amigurumi Tarta de Santiago

Galician Octopus

Witch Hat

Posted on 13 July, 202213 July, 2022 by Gretel Crespo — Leave a comment

Dennis Ball (Shopkins) amigurumi pattern

Today I bring you the Dennis Ball (Shopkins) amigurumi pattern that I was asked for a few days ago and that I did not know but that I thought was very cute and original.

This character is a small tennis ball with an angry face because it is the favorite toy of dogs and it even has drops of spit from them on its forehead.

It’s from the Shopkins figure collection that is based on products that you can buy in stores with a kawaii style and that is why I liked it to turn it into amigurumi.

It is a very simple amigurumi that will help you practice if you are just starting out or distract you if you feel like getting away for a while.

Let’s start!

Size: 2” / 5 cm

Difficulty: Low

Time: 4 h

Crochet Hook: 2 mm

MATERIALS

Yarn of different colors: white, black, greenish blue, Turquoise color
Thickness of the Yarn: 3 mm.
Hook according to the thickness of the yarn..
Yarn needle
Fiberfill.

ABBREVIATIONS

sc: single crochet
st: stitch
ch: chain
inc: increase
dec: decrease

Fill the doll with fiberfill as you crochet.

If you have doubts, visit: Amigurumi Tutorials

Patrón en español

HEAD / BODY

With greenish blue yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. “1 sc, inc”, repeat to the end of the round (18).

4. “2 sc, inc”, repeat (24).

5. “3 sc, inc”, repeat (30).

6. and 7. 1 sc in each st (30).

8. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).

9. 1 sc in each st (36).

10. Change to turquoise color yarn and work 1 sc in each st (36).

11. to 14. 1 sc in each st (36).

15. “4 sc, dec”, repeat (30).

16. and 17. 1 sc in each st (30).

18. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).

19. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (18).

20. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).

21. Dec in every st (6)

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

LEGS (x2)

Don’t stuff them

With turquoise color yarn

1. Work 6 sc in magic ring

2. Inc in every st (12).

3. and 4. 1 sc in each st (12).

5. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (9).

6. to 9. 1 sc in each st (9).

10. 3 dec, 3 sc (6).

11. and 12. 1 sc in each st (6).

Fasten off. Sew the hole with the yarn needle.

ARMS (x2)

With turquoise color yarn

1. Work 8 sc in magic ring.

2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (8).

4. 2 dec, 4 sc (6).

5. and 6. 1 sc in each st (6). Fasten off.