I am very excited to bring you a new amigurumi pattern born from the collaboration with my colleagues and friends @Haydeeehrlich and @amigurumisalasdehada.
This time it is an unprecedented pattern, a Crochet Baby Unicorn that I have designed especially for them and for you to enjoy crocheting it following their wonderful videotutorial.
Enjoy it!
CROCHET BABY UNICORN AMIGURUMI PATTERN
Size: 6,6″ / 17 cm Difficulty: Medium Estimated time: 8 h Hook size: 2 mm
MATERIALS
Yarn of different colors: white, black, light blue, light yellow, dark yellow, light violet, light pink.
We are going to deal with one of the issues that most concern the amigurumis crocheters, especially if they are starting:
How to sew the different parts of our amigurumi?
This question is important, because although you crochet each part very well, if when assembling the joint is not correct, it will not only affect the appearance of your creation, but you run the risk of detaching the pieces, with the problems that this can cause.
In order to sew the parts of an amigurumi you will need:
The different pieces previously crocheted in which, to facilitate the join, you will have left a thread at the end of the fabric. The length of this thread will depend on the size of the piece you have to sew. More it is better than less and it will be the experience that will allow you to adjust the lenght.
Wool or yarn of the right color in relation to the part you have to sew. You will need it in case you have not left a thread or that it isn’t enough to complete the joint of the piece.
Yarn Needle, that is, a needle suitable for sewing the wool or yarn that we use to crochet our amigurumis. You can find them in different materials, sizes and thicknesses. I usually use metal about 8 cm long.
Tape measure to place the pieces in the right place, especially if the exact measurements are specified in the pattern.
Pins to secure each piece in place and prevent them from moving while you sew them.
The diversity of the pieces and their placement force us to join them in different ways. Let’s see some examples applied to our amigurumi kitten:
Joining an open piece without filling to a closed piece:
It is about joining the ears to the head of our kitten.
On this occasion, the open piece, as it does not have fiberfill, is flat, which divides it into two parts, front and back.
Once the piece is placed in the correct place, for what you can use a measuring tape (photo 1) fix it with one or several pins (photo 2).
On one hand, sew it by taking a piece of fabric from the head and on the other, the full stitch of the ear. (photos 3 to 6)
By this way when you have a part sewed, move the ear to the other side and sew the other part as close as possible.
Finally, make a small knot and introduce the remaining thread to lose it inside the fabric and cut the rest. You should do this to finish the join of all the pieces of your amigurumis.
You already have both ears of your kitten.
Joining an open piece to a closed one:
We have done it with nose and tail.
To begin, hold the piece with pins in the desired place.
Then, sew it taking a bit of the fabric of the closed piece, that is, the head and body of the kitten, to join it to each stitch of the open piece, point by point.
In the case of the tail, having a twisted shape, you must pay special attention to take the fabric of the closed piece so that the open piece keeps its shape.
Joining two flat pieces:
We are going to sew two flat pieces, one on top of the other. It is about joining the stripes of the kitten to the head.
You will do it in the same way: Take from the small piece the whole stitch and from the big piece a little fabric.
And so you have the kitten’s stripes:
Joining of two open pieces:
It will be the case of the join of the head with the body.
It is something very simple, because the number of stitches of both pieces usually matches.
Proceed then to fix the head in its place and once well centered, sew the stitches one by one, that is, the point of the head with its corresponding point of the neck.
Before finishing, when you have left 3 or 4 stitches to finish the join, a little trick to achieve more firmness in the head of any of your amigurumis is to introduce a little more filling in that hole.
You will be surprised to see that you can still put plenty of stuffing in this area of the neck because when handling it while we sew, the fiberfill has moved up (head) or down (body), leaving the area of the neck weakened.
If the head of your amigurumi does not hold up anyway, try this.
Joining the ends of the same piece:
It involves sewing the collar over the kitten’s neck joining the ends.
In this case, we will sew the jingle bell on this joint so more than its appearance, what interests us is that it has a V shape.
To do this, sew zig-zag taking the stitch of one of the sides and going to the next stitch on the other side to complete the join.
Joining two closed pieces:
In our example, we are going to sew the jingle bell on the collar.
To do this, after holding it in place (photo 42) take some fabric from each part, moving around the jingle bell and trying to do it in a small radius so that it looks like it is hanging.
This is all!
Let’s practice this tutorial crocheting this cute kitten.
Sometimes we find the difficulty of crocheting a flat piece that has successive color changes having the need that the transition between colors will be good on both sides, by the right and also by the reverse that will remain visible.
To achieve that the changes of color do not alter the reverse of our fabric keeping the same drawing as the right, what we do is crochet with the two threads, one main and another hidden, so that we can alternate between them without affecting the design.
1.- We begin by crocheting with one of the colors (pink) to then change to the second color (lilac), but instead of cutting the pink thread or leaving it outside the fabric, what we will do is incorporate it into it.
To do this, we keep it on the back and we crochet on it at the same time that we crochet on each stitch with the thread of the main color.
The new lilac stitches will remain on the pink thread that is hidden among them.
2.- We change again to the pink color that will become the main color in our fabric. We do it by incorporating it in the final step of a single crochet. To do this, we begin to crochet the single crochet with the lilac color and at the moment we have the 2 loops in the hook, we will introduce the pink color through them completing the single crochet.
3.- We already have the pink thread as the main one but we must keep the lilac color hidden, as we have done before and continue crocheting with the two threads.
As you can see, keeping the two strands in the fabric is very simple, avoids cuts and loose threads and in addition to providing a reverse of the piece without defects, it is also very useful when we have to make continuous color changes.
Practice the reversible color change by crocheting this nice butterfly
VIDEO TUTORIAL LITTLE LULU free amigurumi pattern IN SPANISH FOR RIGHT HANDED
VIDEO-TUTORIAL LITTLE LULU free amigurumi pattern IN SPANISH FOR LEFT HANDED
VIDEO TUTORIAL LITTLE LULU free amigurumi pattern IN ENGLISH FOR RIGHT HANDED
VIDEO-TUTORIAL LITTLE LULU free amigurumi pattern IN ENGLISH FOR LEFT HANDED
FEET / LEGS
With Light Brown yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc” repeat to the end of the round (18).
4. “2 sc, inc” repeat (24).
5. “3 sc, inc” repeat (30).
6. to 9. 1 sc in each st (30).
10. 6 dec, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (24).
11. 3 dec, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (21).
12. 3 dec, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (18).
13. Change to white yarn and crochet “1 sc, dec” repeat (12).
14. 1 sc in each st(12).
15. Change to skin color yarn and crochet in back loops only 1 sc in each st (12). You will return to this round to complete the sock.
16. to 35. 1 sc in each st (12).
36. Change to white yarn and crochet 1 sc in each st (12).
37. Crochet in back loops only 1 sc in each st (12). You will return to this round to complete the bloomers.
38. to 40. 1 sc in each st (12).
Fasten off.
Fasten off the first leg.
Crochet the second one following the same pattern and leave it without fastening off to start the Joining of the legs:
Put one leg next to the other and mark the center st between them. Crochet in the second leg that you left without fastening off 1 sc in each st until you reach the marked st. Pass with 1 sc to the first leg. Crochet on it 1 sc in each st until you reach the marked st again, Pass with 1 sc to the second leg and complete the joining.
Sew the hole between legs with the yarn needle. Continue crocheting the BODY:
1. You will have 24 sc.
2. to 4. 1 sc in each st (24).
3. “3 sc, inc” repeat (30).
4. 1 sc in each st (30).
5. Change to skin color yarn and crochet 1 sc in each st (30).
6. to 18. 1 sc in each st (30).
19. Crochet in back loops only 1 sc in each st (30). You will return to this round to crochet the dress.
20. Crochet again in back loops only, 1 sc in each st (30). You will return to this round to complete the collar.
21. “3 sc, dec” repeat (24).
Fasten off.
COMPLETE THE BLOOMERS With white yarn
1. Return to round 37 of the legs and holding the doll with the feet pointing up, crochet in the free loops 1 sc in each st (12).
2. “3 double crochets on the same sc, 1 sc ” repeat 6 times.
Fasten off.
COMPLETE THE SOCKS With white yarn
1. Return to round 15 of the feet and holding the doll with the feet pointing up, crochet in the free loops 1 sc in each st (12).
2. and 3. 1 sc in each st. (12).
Fasten off.
DRESS
With red yarn
1. Return to round 19 of the body. holding the doll with the feet pointing up, crochet in the free loops 1 sc in each st (30).
2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (30).
4. “4 sc, inc”, repeat (36).
5. “5 sc, inc”, repeat (42).
6. “6 sc, inc”, repeat (48).
7. And 8. 1 sc in each st (48).
9. “7 sc, inc” repeat (54).
10. “8 sc, inc” repeat (60).
11. And 12. 1 sc in each st (60).
13. “9 sc, inc” repeat (66).
14. And 15. 1 sc in each st (66).
16. “10 sc, inc” repeat (72).
17. And 18. 1 sc in each st (72).
19. “11 sc, inc”, repeat (78).
20. And 21. 1 sc in each st (78).
22. “12 sc, inc” repeat (84).
23. to 30. 1 sc in each st (84).
Fasten off.
COMPLETE THE COLLAR With white yarn
1. Return to round 20 of the body and holding the doll with the feet pointing up, crochet in the free loops 1 sc in each st (30).
2. Mark the 2 center stitches at front. Crochet 1 slip st in each sc until you reach the previous 4 sc before the 2 marked stitches. In these four stitches crochet the following sequence: “1 double crochet, 3 treble crochets, 3 treble crochets, 1 double crochet”. You are at the 2 marked sc. Crochet in each one of them 1 slip st and repeat the same sequence again over the next 4 stitches. Crochet 1 slip stitch in each st to complete the round.
Fasten off.
ARMS (x2)
Fingers (x4) With skin color yarn
1. Work 4 sc in magic ring.
2. to 5. 1 sc in each st (4).
Crochet and fasten off 3 fingers, leave the fourth finger without fastening off to start The joining of the fingers:
1. Work 1 sc in the next finger and then 1 sc, work 1 sc in the third finger and then 1 sc, work 1 sc in the last finger and then 3 more sc. Repeat the same sequence on the other side. You will have 16 sc. (4 fingers x 4 sc).
2. and 3. 1 sc in each st (16).
3. “2 sc, dec”, repeat (12).
4. 1 sc in each st (12).
5. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (8).
6. to 10. 1 sc in each st (8).
11. Change to red yarn and crochet 1 sc in each st (8).
12. Crochet in back loops only 1 sc in each st (8) .You will return to this round to complete the sleeves.
13. to 24. 1 sc in each st (8).
25. Dec in every st (4).
Close with the yarn needle.
Thumb (x2):
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. to 5. 1 sc in each st (6).
Fasten off.
COMPLETE THE SLEEVES With red yarn
1. Return to round 12 of the arms and holding the arm with the hand pointing up, crochet in the free loops 1 sc in each st (8).
2. “1 sc, inc” repeat (12).
3. to 6. 1 sc in each st (12).
Fasten off.
HEAD
With skin color yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc” repeat (18).
4. “2 sc, inc” repeat (24).
5. “3 sc, inc” repeat (30).
6. “4 sc, inc” repeat (36).
7. to 15. 1 sc in each st (36).
16. “2 sc, inc” 6 times, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (42).
17. “3 sc, inc” 6 times, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (48).
18. “4 sc, inc” 6 times, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (54).
19. “5 sc, inc” 6 times, 1 sc in each st to the rest of the round (60).
20. to 25. 1 sc in each st (60).
26. “8 sc, dec” repeat (54).
27. “7 sc, dec” repeat (48).
28. “6 sc, dec” repeat (42).
29. “5 sc, dec” repeat (36).
30. “4 sc, dec” repeat (30).
31. “3 sc, dec”, repeat (24).
Fasten off.
NOSE With skin color yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. 1 sc in each st (6).
Fasten off.
HAIR
With black yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc” repeat (18).
4. “2 sc, inc” repeat (24).
5. “3 sc, inc” repeat (30).
6. “4 sc, inc” repeat (36).
7. “5 sc, inc” repeat (42).
8. to 10. 1 sc in each st (42).
11. 24 sc (leave 18 sc unworked). (24)
12. to 20. Ch 1 , turn and crochet 1 sc in each st (24).
21. From this row and the next ones, you will make 2 decreases, one at the beginning and another at the end. Thus, you will Ch 1, turn and make the first decrease, continue crocheting 1 sc in each st until you reach the 2 last stitches in which you must do the second decrease. (22).
22. Continue with 2 decreases (20).
23. (18).
24. (16).
25. (14).
Fasten off.
RINGLETS (x6) With black yarn
1. Chain 20.
2. Crochet 3 more chains that will serve as a first double crochet and add 2 more double crochets at that st. Complete by crocheting 3 double crochets in each chain to the end.
Roll with the fingers giving shape to the ringlet.
FRONT TUFTS (x2) With black yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc” repeat (18).
4. And 5. 1 sc in each st (18).
6. “1 sc, dec”, repeat (12).
7. Dec in every st (6).
Fasten off. Close with the yarn needle.
HAT
With red yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. Inc in every st (12).
3. “1 sc, inc” repeat (18).
4. And 5. 1 sc in each st (18).
Fasten off.
With white yarn
1. Work 6 sc in magic ring.
2. 1 sc in each st (6).
Fasten off.
FINAL DETAILS
Embroider with black yarn the eyes, eyebrows and the smile.
I confess that it is the most important project that I have faced so far, not only because they are unpublished patterns, but because I wanted their design to be very special.
From the beginning I had the firm intention to correspond to the support that you and other colleagues give me, and what a better way than to follow many of the ideas and suggestions that you have given to me with so much affection.
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